While in Damascus, I had the opportunity to meet Abul Hammam, a fighter from Hayat Tahrir al-Sham (HTS). It was an encounter that would leave a lasting impression. What started as a simple conversation in Umayyad Square soon turned into a discussion about identity, religion, and the wearing of the headscarf.
Abul Hammam, 30, originally from Damascus, had been fighting in Aleppo for years before joining HTS at the start of the Syrian revolution. His personal journey took him far beyond Syria’s borders, with time spent in Azerbaijan. But it was in this brief but meaningful moment that we found ourselves discussing something much deeper.
This encounter, while simple in its context, offered profound insights into the complex world of Syrian conflict, cultural identity, and personal beliefs.
Meeting Abul Hammam in Umayyad Square: A Reunion After 15 Years
I met Abul Hammam and his cousin Mohammad in the heart of Damascus, at Umayyad Square. The two men embraced tightly, their long-awaited reunion after 15 years apart. As they caught up on their lives, it was clear how much this moment meant to both of them.
Abul Hammam’s story was both compelling and telling. Originally from Damascus, he had been involved in the conflict in Aleppo from the very beginning. As the Syrian revolution unfolded, he joined HTS, a group that has played a controversial role in the conflict. Since then, he had spent some time in Azerbaijan, continuing his journey far from home.
I greeted them and conversed briefly with Abul Hammam in Azeri, my second language, which seemed to break the ice. This led to a fascinating exchange on identity and the complexities of cultural backgrounds.
A Conversation on Identity: Where Are You Really From?
During our conversation, Abul Hammam asked me an unexpected question: “Your name is Arabic, but you are not Arab. Where are you from?”
I cautiously explained that I was originally from West Azerbaijan in Iran. His response was kind and surprisingly warm. He smiled and said, “Many of our ancestors are from the Balkans and Soviet Union countries near Iran. I like Iranian people, but not the regime. We fought with them.”
This comment highlighted the complexity of the region and its long history of cross-cultural interactions. Despite the political tensions, the bond between the peoples of the region is undeniable.
Religion and the Headscarf: A Delicate Conversation
As the conversation progressed, we briefly touched on the topic of religion. Abul Hammam asked me if I was a Christian. I smiled politely, trying to avoid delving too deeply into religious discussion, which I knew could be sensitive.
But then, he surprised me by offering a brotherly piece of advice. He asked, “Do you have a headscarf?”
I responded affirmatively, saying that I did have one with me. He then gently suggested, “I think you will be nicer if you wear it as a Muslim woman.”
It was a strange moment, but one that highlighted the cultural norms and expectations in Damascus. While I didn’t feel obliged to follow his advice, I respected his perspective. For reasons of both respect and security, I decided to take out my headscarf and cover a portion of my hair, similar to how I would in Iran.
Abul Hammam’s next words were even more direct: “If you bring it further and cover all, it will be much better.”
While the suggestion was made with kindness, it was clear that for some in the region, wearing a headscarf wasn’t just a matter of personal choice but a cultural and religious expectation.
Why This Encounter Was So Significant
This simple exchange with Abul Hammam in Damascus opened my eyes to the complexities of identity, religion, and cultural expectations in a region marked by conflict and division. Though we came from very different backgrounds, the moment felt like a bridge between worlds, with Abul Hammam offering both a friendly gesture and a cultural insight into his worldview.
His suggestion regarding the headscarf was just one part of a much larger conversation about the way people are shaped by their environment, their beliefs, and the circumstances in which they live. It reminded me that even in the most personal of moments, there are layers of meaning and context that cannot be ignored.
What Can We Learn From This Conversation?
- Respecting Cultural Differences: In regions like Syria, cultural expectations, such as the wearing of a headscarf, can carry deep significance. While I may not agree with all aspects of these cultural norms, respecting them is an important part of engaging meaningfully with others.
- The Power of Conversation: A simple conversation can reveal so much about a person’s life experiences, beliefs, and worldview. Even a brief exchange can offer a glimpse into the complexities of a culture or region.
- Religion and Identity: Religion plays a significant role in the lives of many people in the Middle East, and discussing these topics with respect and understanding is essential. While Islamic values influence much of life in the region, there’s also a great deal of diversity within the religious landscape.
Conclusion: The Importance of Cultural Sensitivity and Understanding
Meeting Abul Hammam in Damascus gave me much more than a conversation; it was a lesson in cultural understanding. As someone who had fought in Aleppo, he had seen firsthand the impact of the Syrian conflict and the role of HTS in shaping the region’s history. Yet, despite the political differences, our discussion was rooted in respect, curiosity, and a shared understanding of the importance of identity.
The advice about the headscarf was a small but telling detail. It spoke volumes about the cultural landscape of Syria and the expectations placed on women. However, it also highlighted the importance of personal choice in navigating these cultural norms.
As we move forward in an increasingly globalized world, it’s important to continue engaging with others in meaningful ways, asking questions, listening, and respecting cultural differences.
Relevant Links for Further Reading
- Hayat Tahrir al-Sham Overview
- Understanding the Role of Religion in Middle Eastern Culture
- The Impact of the Syrian Conflict
- Cultural Sensitivity and the Middle East
- The Role of the Headscarf in Islamic Culture
Photo credit: BBC
